Casa Boakoster - Odemira, Portugal

Odemira

Between the Algarve to the South and Lisbon to the North sits the town of Odemira. The River Mira gives the town it’s name, and connects it to the Atlantic Ocean at Vilanova de Milfontes, some 15Km downstream.

Odemira is located in the province of Alentejo, an area that is in stark contrast to the tourism-driven developments of the Algarve. In Odemira the pace of life is slow; the quiet cobbled streets, orange-blossom scented squares and weathered houses giving the town a distinctly timeless atmosphere. Here you can get espresso for under €1, eat the legendary frango (grilled chicken) and sample the local wines for €10, and find some fantastic bargains in the weird and wonderful little shops that are dotted throughout the town.

Returning to the river, there is a lovely tree-lined boardwalk along the southern bank, with small jetties and benches at various points to seek shade form the midday sun, or just watch the fisherman lazily casting out into the green waters, which are some of the cleanest in Europe. The boardwalk is one example of the recent improvements to the town that confirm its status as the region’s main hub. As such, the town has several bank branches and a post office, as well as the following amenities:

- Free wireless Internet in the Castelo, the beautiful historic library;
- Cinema (films are usually in English);
- Hospital, very close to the house;
- 24 hour Pharmacy;
- Supermarkets (Lidl, Aldi and Intermarche);
- Indoor swimming pool;
- Numerous restaurants and cafés;
- Various squares and parks (there’s even a small skatepark), including one directly next to the house with play equipment for the kids; Bakery (50m from the house) with a phone booth located outside.

Useful Links:

http://www.kavanusurf.com/
For all your surf equipment (wetsuits/boards/bags/wax/fins etc)

http://retromovement.blogspot.com/
local shaper

http://helenaloermans.blogspot.com/
Helena Loermans Handwoven Textiles based in Odemira. Makes beautiful scarfs and rugs by hand.

http://magicseaweed.com/Malhao-Surf-Report/202/
check the surf forecast at the local beach.

Link to Casa Boakoster Facebook page

Site from Carpenter Bas Koster, the builder of Casa Boakoster

Alentejo

The province of Alentejo is known for its farming and the quality of the produce from it’s fertile soils. Traditionally the State used to own large plots of land and employed all the farmers. Now most of the land is privately owned, but it still produces much of the country’s fruit and vegetables as well as beef, and more recently excellent wines that are gaining recognition around the world.

Alentejo has a spectacular and rugged coastline, defined by it’s exposure to the Atlantic ocean. Towering cliffs inhabited by nesting storks give way to sheltered, secluded beaches, a far-cry from the crowded beach-fronts of the Algarve. The raw beauty of this stretch of coast will reward all who explore it, with the towns of Zambujera del Mar and Vila Nova de Milfontes providing excellent seafood after a long day’s exploring. Here are some of the best beaches in the area, from north to south:

Sao Torpes – Great beach with very good surfing and restaurants.
Porto Covo – Historic village with beautiful beaches between the cliffs.
Praia Aivados and Malhoa – Beautiful empty beaches perfect for long walks, surfing or simply snoozing underneath a parasol.
Villa Nova de Milfontes – The main tourist destination in the area.

Where the river Mira meets the ocean, it has sheltered beaches safe for swimming and sunbathing sheltered from the wind by the cliffs. Also on offer here are fishing trips by boat, and a surf school.

Cabo de Sardao – No beach, but a dramatic panorama. Feel the raw power of the Atlantic and see the storks and their nests perched high up on the cliff-tops.
Zambujera de Mar – Picturesque old village built high up on the cliffs, with some of Alentejo’s best seafood restaurants. Beneath the cliffs lies the beach with it’s tidal pools for swimming, and a great beach break for surfers.

The landscape between Odemira and the coast is green and rolling, and there are many kilometres of walking trails that wind through the countryside. A short drive from Odemira is the beautiful river Pego de Pias (see below for the video), which has carved it’s way through the rocks to create large lagoons perfect for swimming, and some great natural platforms for jumping in! More information can be obtained from the Tourist Office in the town about these and other places of interest in the area.

by Pedro Miguel